Today I am going to share the pattern for a hat and scarf set that I made for my daughter. It is going to be part of a Christmas present so unfortunately I don't have any pictures of her wearing it. The idea for this pattern came from the yarn. A few weeks ago I was lucky enough to receive a package in the mail from Red Heart with a few of their new yarns for me to try out.
I loved all of them and immediately began thinking of what I could make and who I could make it for. The one that really caught my eye though was the purple ball of Red Heart Boutique Swanky. The color that I received is called purple panache. It has sequins in the yarn and as soon as I saw the sparkle and shine of the yarn I immediately thought of my 6 year old daughter. She loves anything that sparkles and I knew she would love something from the yarn. Right away I thought of doing a hat and scarf set. 1 ball of yarn was the perfect amount for the hat and a matching infinity scarf. I am really excited about the way it turned out. I think she is going to love it.
The yarn was really fun and I loved the sequins in the yarn, however, the addition of the sequins did, in my opinion make it a little bit more difficult to work with. One word of warning I will give is not to pull from the center. I usually pull from the center because I find it is usually easier to work with that way. Not with this yarn, the sequins get caught occasionally as you are pulling it out and that can cause a big tangled mess. My only other real complaint about the yarn is that it is an extremely splitty yarn. That was probably the thing that made it the most frustrating to work with. All in all I found it to be a really fun yarn and I enjoyed using it. I would definitely use it again if I had the right project for it. Personally, I am not a sequin person so I probably won't be making myself anything with it but if you are or you know someone who is it is a fun yarn to use. You can buy it online at redheart.com/yarn or check your local craft store to see if they carry it.
Now, for more about the pattern. As I mentioned before the daughter that I made this for is 6. Although it is for Christmas it is not something that I was really worried about her seeing so I actually tried it on her a few times to be sure that the size was right. She would ask me if it was for her and I would tell her I was making it for a little girl about her size. She would tell me that she wanted it to be for her because it sparkled and she loves sparkles. As a result I am pretty confident that she will like it and that it will fit. I tried the scarf on my 4 year old son to make sure the length would work. He wasn't too thrilled about that but they are close enough in size that it gave me a good idea of the right size. I am excited to give it to her, I think she will be excited to see that the hat really was for her and that there is a scarf to match.
For a child sized set you will need:
1 skein of Red Heart Swanky yarn
H crochet hook
Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Sparkle Hat Pattern
Child Size
A couple of quick notes:
*On the double crochet rounds I start with a ch 2 which does not count as a double crochet, I always join to the first double crochet of the round, if you prefer to have your starting chain count as a stitch you can start with a chain 3 and do one less double crochet.
*On the v-stitch rounds you will start with a chain 4 which does count as your first double crochet and chain 1.
Start with a magic ring
Round 1: ch 2, 10 dc, join to first dc (10 dc)
Round 2: ch 2, 2 dc in each stitch, join to first dc (20 dc)
Round 3: ch 2, 2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch, repeat around, join to first dc (30 dc)
Round 4: ch 2, 2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 2 stitches, repeat around, join to first dc (40 dc)
Round 5: ch 2, 2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 3 stitches, repeat around, join to first dc (50 dc)
Round 6: ch 2, 2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 4 stitches, repeat around, join to first dc (60 dc)
Round 7: ch 4, dc in same stitch, *sk 2, [dc, ch 1, dc] in next, repeat from*, join to 3rd ch (20 v-stitches)
Round 8-13: sl st to ch 1 space, ch 4, dc in same space, [dc, ch 1, dc] in each ch space around, join to 3rd chain (20 v-stitches)
Round 14-16: ch 1, sc in each stitch around (each dc and ch space), join to first sc (60 sc)
Cut yarn and weave in ends, it is easier to weave your ends in if you first remove and sequins from the length of yarn you are weaving in.
Sparkle Infinity Scarf Pattern
Toddler-Child size (approx. 5"x37")
ch 31
Row 1: [dc, ch 1, dc] in fifth ch from hook, *sk 2, [dc, ch 1, dc] in next, repeat from* until there are 2 stitches left, sk 1, dc in last ch, ch 3, turn (7 v-stitches and 2 dc)
Row 2: [dc, ch 1, dc] in each ch 1 space, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn (7 v-stitches and 2 dc)
Repeat row 2 until desired length, I continued until I was almost out of yarn
Final row: (with this row you will be making your scarf into a circle, if you prefer you can simply sew the 2 ends together, I feel that crocheting them together makes a less noticeable seam but either way works) making sure that your scarf is not twisted, bring the beginning edge even with the edge you are working, you should have already ch 3 at the end of the last row, now sl st to the first stitch of the first row (depending on which side you end on it will either be the first ch or 3rd from the end), sl st into ch space on beginning row, dc into ch space on end row, ch 1, sl st in next ch sp of first row, dc in same ch space, sl st again in same ch space of first row, dc in next ch sp of end row, continue to follow that pattern of slip stitching to the first row before each stitch on the end row. It sounds really complicated written out but it is really just a matter of slip stitching to the beginning at the same time as you are working the last row. Like I said, if you find it easier you can always just sew the ends together.
When you are finished cut your yarn and weave in ends. A little advice on weaving in ends, I found it much easier to do if I first removed all of the sequins from the length of yarn I was weaving in. Just carefully snip into the hole on the sequin and take it off.
Is there an easy way to adjust this size to an adult woman size? Beautiful set!
ReplyDeleteThe scarf would be easy. You can make it wider by adding multiples of 3 until it is as wide as you want it. Then just keep going until it is as long as you want it to be before joining it.
DeleteThe hat is just a little more complicated. I don't know exactly how much bigger you would need to make it but if you are willing to do a little trial and error it should be pretty easy. The dc rounds at the beginning of the hat are the increase rounds so you would want to start there, adding another round or two of increases. You want the dc round to end with a multiple of 3 if possible, the v-stitch rows would be worked the same just more of them. You would also want to add more rounds of v-stitches to give it more length, then finish off with the sc rounds. Sorry if that isn't very helpful, I can't really know without making it exactly how many more rounds you would need to add, etc. Maybe after Christmas I will try to make this hat in more sizes.
Thank you for your informative response!
DeleteHello! I am a very beginning crocheter, and I am loving your patterns! I do have one question about the hat. In Round 8 it says "Round 8-13: sl st to ch 1 space, ch 4, dc in same space, [dc, ch 1, dc] in each ch space around, join to 3rd chain (20 v-stitches)". I am a little confused about the spaces. What space does the dc (after the ch4) go in? And in the [dc ch1 dc] in the spaces around, do you mean the "v" spaces? or the space in between the 'v'? I am sorry if this is confusing. Thanks so much for your time!!
ReplyDeleteSorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. You will make the v-stitches in the chain spaces from the previous row, so it is in the v space. The ch 4, dc in same space will all happen in the first v space in the round. After that you will dc, ch 1, dc in each v space. if you look at it it should look like a little v sitting inside of/ on top of another v. The point at the bottom of the new v will sit in the space made at the top of the v on the previous round. I don't know if that helps. If you have more questions feel free to ask me, I promise I will get back to you quicker next time.
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