Crocheted Valentine Treat Bag

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I thought it would be kind of fun to make some little crocheted treat bags for Valentine's Day. I had an  idea in my head of what I wanted, a little drawstring bag with a heart crocheted on the front of it.

I really wanted to crochet the heart into the bag, rather than an appliqué that was sewn on after the fact. So I drew up a simple little heart graph and started crocheting. My first thought was to do a single crochet graph and it was a disaster. because of the way I did the color changes it looked super messy and you could hardly even tell it was a heart.

I tried a couple of different ways to do the color changes and different placement of the single crochet stitches, and nothing really looked good. So, I scrapped that idea and decided to try a technique that I had seen but had never tried: Crocheting a graph in front post double crochet.

That worked, it gave me the heart design I was hoping to create. The post stitches do create a much thicker fabric than other stitches would, but the heart shape is nice and clear. It is just the right size to hold a few small treats.

Whether you fill it with candy, toys, or something else, this is a fun way so give someone a little something for Valentine's Day.

How to Crochet a Valentine Treat Bag

Finished Size about 4" wide by 4 1/2" tall

You will need:

• worsted weight yarn in 2 contrasting colors (I used CraftSmart Ombre in Sangria, and Red Heart Super Saver in White)
• H crochet hook
• yarn needle 
• scissors

Instructions:

You will work into both sides of the starting ch to form the first round of stitches. The beginning ch does not count as a stitch.  I carried the yarn behind the stitches to have fewer ends to weave in. 

begin with main color (Sangria)

ch 13

Round 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each of the next 9 stitches,  3 dc in next stitch turning as you work so that you are working in the other side of the ch, 1 dc in each of next 9 stitches (same stitches that you worked before but in the leftover loops on the opposite side), 2 dc in the last stitch (same stitch as first dc), sl st to first dc to join (24 dc)

Round 2: ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), fpdc in first 5 stitches, change to contrasting color (white), 1 fpdc, change to main color, fpdc in each stitch to the end, sl st to first dc to join (24 fpdc)

Round 3:  ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), fpdc in first 4 stitches, change to contrasting color (white), 3 fpdc, change to main color, fpdc in each stitch to the end, sl st to first dc to join (24 fpdc)

Round 4:  ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), fpdc in first 3 stitches, change to contrasting color (white), 5 fpdc, change to main color, fpdc in each stitch to the end, sl st to first dc to join (24 fpdc)

Round 5:  ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), fpdc in first 2 stitches, change to contrasting color (white), 7 fpdc, change to main color, fpdc in each stitch to the end, sl st to first dc to join (24 fpdc)

Round 6:  ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), fpdc in first 2 stitches, change to contrasting color (white), 7 fpdc, change to main color, fpdc in each stitch to the end, sl st to first dc to join (24 fpdc)

Round 7: ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), fpdc in first 3 stitches, change to contrasting color (white), 2 fpdc, change to main color, 1 fpdc, change to contrasting color, 2 fpdc, change to main color, fpdc in each stitch to the end, sl st to first dc to join (24 fpdc)

Round 8: ch 2, fpdc in each stitch to the end, sl st to first dc to join (24 fpdc)

Round 9: ch 2, dc in each stitch to the end, sl st to first dc to join (24 dc)

Round 10: ch 2, dc in first stitch, ch 1, skip next stitch, [dc in next stitch, ch 1, skip next stitch] repeat around, sl st to first dc to join (12 dc, 12 ch sp)

Round 11: ch 1, sc in each stitch, sl st to first stitch to join (24 sc)

Finish off, weave in ends

Cut a length of yarn to weave around the holes in round 10, pull to tie closed and trim as desired