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I have one last pattern to share as a part of the Aurora series, at least for now. I actually planned on stopping with the market bag I shared last week, but as I was working on it I remembered a little crossbody purse that I had made for one of my girls a couple of years ago, and thought it would also work really well with this stitch pattern.
It is a small little purse. Like I said, I made the original one for my daughter who was 7 at the time, but it could be used by anyone, just adjust the length of the strap to fit your needs.
When I originally made a purse like this for my daughter it was because she was getting a phone as part of a medical device. The phone connected to the device via bluetooth so it was very important that it always be close to her, at least within bluetooth range. I wanted to make a cute little purse that she could carry around that would hold her phone, and maybe a few other little items that she wanted to have with her. It can hold small things like a phone, or a little notebook and pens, a small wallet, or your keys.
In my experience my girls all love having small bags and containers to collect and carry around all of their treasures and this is the perfect size for that.
How to Crochet the Aurora Crossbody Purse
You will need:
- medium weight cotton yarn (I used Dishie in Azure)
- H crochet hook
- large button (3/4"-1" in diameter)
- scissors
- yarn needle
Instructions:
Finished size approximately 5" x 7" not including strap
Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 16 ch, 3 sc in last sc turning to work along other side of the ch, sc in next 16, 2 sc in last stitch, sl st to first sc to join (38 sc)
Round 2-6: ch 1, sc in each stitch, sl st to first sc to join (38 sc)
Round 7: ch 4 (counts as first dc and ch 1), skip next stitch, [dc in next stitch, ch 1, skip 1] repeat around (19 dc, 19 ch 1 sp)
Round 8: sl st into ch sp, ch 2, sk first ch sp, dc in next, dc in skipped sp, [sk sp already worked, dc in next, dc in previous sp] repeat around, dc to first st to join (38 dc)
Round 9: ch 2, dc in each stitch, sl st to join (38 dc)
Round 10: ch 2, [sk next stitch, dc in next stitch, dc in skipped stitch] repeat around, sl st to first dc to join (38 dc)
Round 11: sl st into sp between crossed doubles, ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [sk 2 dc, dc in between crossed doubles, ch 1] repeat around, sl st to first dc to join (19 dc, 19 ch 1 sp)
Round 8: sl st into ch sp, ch 2, sk first ch sp, dc in next, dc in skipped sp, [sk sp already worked, dc in next, dc in previous sp] repeat around, dc to first st to join (38 dc)
Round 9: ch 2, dc in each stitch, sl st to join (38 dc)
Round 10: ch 2, [sk next stitch, dc in next stitch, dc in skipped stitch] repeat around, sl st to first dc to join (38 dc)
Round 11: sl st into sp between crossed doubles, ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [sk 2 dc, dc in between crossed doubles, ch 1] repeat around, sl st to first dc to join (19 dc, 19 ch 1 sp)
Round 12: sl st into ch sp, ch 2, sk first ch sp, dc in next, dc in skipped sp, [sk sp already worked, dc in next, dc in previous sp] repeat around, dc to first st to join (38 dc)
Round 13: ch 2, dc in each stitch, sl st to join (38 dc)
Round 14: ch 2, [sk next stitch, dc in next stitch, dc in skipped stitch] repeat around, sl st to first dc to join (38 dc)
Round 15: sl st into sp between crossed doubles, ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [sk 2 dc, dc in between crossed doubles, ch 1] repeat around, sl st to first dc to join (19 dc, 19 ch 1 sp)
Round 16-19: ch 1, sc in each stitch, sl st to first sc to join (38 sc)
Round 20: find the center stitch on the side that will be the back of your purse, mark this stitch with a stitch marker or yarn scrap, ch 1, sc to the center back stitch that you marked, ch 15, sl st to first ch, sc in the next stitch and each stitch around, sl st to first sc to join (38 sc, ch 15 loop)
Lay the purse flat and find the 2 stitches on each side where you will attach the handle, starting on one side work 2 sc, ch 1, turn, work 1 sc in each stitch, and repeat that working 2 sc in each row until the strap is the length you want, I did about 94 rows of sc to make my strap, *you will want to make it a little shorter than you think you need it because it will stretch out with use*, cut your yarn and stitch the strap to the two marked stitches on the other side, weave in ends
Stitch the button to the front of your purse
Round 13: ch 2, dc in each stitch, sl st to join (38 dc)
Round 14: ch 2, [sk next stitch, dc in next stitch, dc in skipped stitch] repeat around, sl st to first dc to join (38 dc)
Round 15: sl st into sp between crossed doubles, ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [sk 2 dc, dc in between crossed doubles, ch 1] repeat around, sl st to first dc to join (19 dc, 19 ch 1 sp)
Round 16-19: ch 1, sc in each stitch, sl st to first sc to join (38 sc)
Round 20: find the center stitch on the side that will be the back of your purse, mark this stitch with a stitch marker or yarn scrap, ch 1, sc to the center back stitch that you marked, ch 15, sl st to first ch, sc in the next stitch and each stitch around, sl st to first sc to join (38 sc, ch 15 loop)
Lay the purse flat and find the 2 stitches on each side where you will attach the handle, starting on one side work 2 sc, ch 1, turn, work 1 sc in each stitch, and repeat that working 2 sc in each row until the strap is the length you want, I did about 94 rows of sc to make my strap, *you will want to make it a little shorter than you think you need it because it will stretch out with use*, cut your yarn and stitch the strap to the two marked stitches on the other side, weave in ends
Stitch the button to the front of your purse
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